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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.